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Blog Profile / The Food Chain

Filed Under:United States / Chicago
Posts on Regator:1461
Posts / Week:5.4
Archived Since:June 16, 2009

Blog Post Archive

American regulators vs. American cheese

Rush Creek Reserve, one of the most acclaimed artisanal cheeses in America, will not be made this year—and possibly never again. The reason is that new regulations from Washington appear to be poised to destroy much of the existing artisanal cheese movement.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

One of the best cheeses in America came from Wisconsin, until new regulation stepped in

Four years ago this fall I was on a cheese junket, a tour of Wisconsin cheesemakers arranged by the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board (being so perishable, milk's only shot at wider markets comes in cheese form). We were at Uplands Cheese Co. Show More Summary

Benefits for Zanella girls, and other food-related events in the last days of summer

Several months back I wrote about the tragedy that befell the family of chef Dean Zanella, long of 312 Chicago and Rhapsody—his wife Mary died suddenly, just days after giving birth to their twin daughters. There are two benefits being held for the twins, Anna and Nora.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

The name is bing, dan bing. At Uptown's Aodake Asian Bistro

One more bing and it's a Thing. Last week DNAinfo profiled the couple behind Nali, a vendor at the Friday Nosh market at Riverside Plaza that traffics in jianbing, stuff-stuffed mung bean and millet crepes.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Ivy's: Building a better hot dog for the neighborhood

When Hot Doug's was in its first bloom of world-historical fame, I often wondered why, in a city full of hot dog stands, almost no one else seemed to be following in the footsteps of the only hot dog stand with a line wrapped around its building. Show More Summary

Mr. H. Forman of London kindly requests your presence at a salmon tasting

The first thing I ask Ethan Forman as he slices smoked Scottish salmon in my kitchen is where's his English accent? "Everyone asks that.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Albany Park's Pita Puff doesn't need belly dancers and disco balls

Last week I used up considerable space lamenting the dreary Middle Eastern food at Logan Square's Masada and its inverse relationship to the elaborate and lysergic decor. I've also spent considerable time over the last few years whinging...Show More Summary

One Bite: Craft Pizza's murderously spicy white pizza

Naming a pizza, however obliquely, after one of the first American serial killers (that we know of) seems like a weak Kumasesque grab for attention. (Remember Kuma's?… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Happy tenth to the city's best restaurant . . . in the suburbs

It's arguable which restaurant has been the city's most influential over the past 25 years—Trotter's, Alinea, Frontera, Blackbird—but there's no doubt what restaurant has been most important for the suburbs for the past decade: Vie in Western Springs. … [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Rhine Hall Distillery: Schnapps for Chicago

As a category of drink, schnapps has an old-fashioned, slightly cheesy image tied up with winter sports. Peppermint schnapps is the kind of candy-flavored drink that someone young and unsophisticated would drink in the belief that more sophisticated people drink it apres-ski.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

The Aviary's Charles Joly wins best bartender in the world

If you were wondering whether those weirdly conceptual drinks at the Aviary are really worth the asking price, well, the cocktail world has chimed in to say, "hell yeah." Charles Joly, the Aviary's chief bartender and beverage director,...Show More Summary

Farewell, Serious Eats Chicago

Every food-media website deserves notice on its way out the door, so this is mine for Serious Eats Chicago, which technically still exists but has largely been absorbed back into its New York mothership. That this was happening was obvious...Show More Summary

There's nothing in the air at Piko Riko

Each morning, at around nine or ten, the atmosphere on the blocks surrounding the intersection of Montrose and Troy in Albany Park is saturated with the narcotic aroma of roasting chicken. If you happen to pass by the esteemed Colombian...Show More Summary

How ham fat satisfies: More from Paul Fehribach on southern cooking

So right as yesterday's segment of my interview with chef Paul Fehribach of Big Jones about his upcoming southern food cookbooks was being editorized for enpublishment, Twitter went kerflooey over a spectacularly nasty review of an Appalachian-themed...Show More Summary

'Even pimiento cheese has a story': Paul Fehribach on his upcoming cookbooks

Southern-style comfort food is a fairly easy sell, especially after a few drinks. When Big Jones opened in Andersonville in 2008, it could have gotten along just fine doing a restaurant version of feel-good food, calories be damned.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Quesadillas as big as your head at Las Quecas

I generally resort to eating quesadillas only when there's nothing but cheese and tortillas around. I'm not saying they're useless, but if you have anything more interesting at your disposal why wouldn't you just make tacos?… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

The G&O Tavern's food is good enough—but not great

Named for its location—near the intersection of Grand and Ogden—the G&O Tavern sits just a couple blocks from its sister bar, the Aberdeen Tap. It's more upscale than the Aberdeen, which offers pretty straightforward bar fare like sandwiches, wings, tater tots, and a good selection of draft beer.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

What some recent restaurant closings mean for the scene

I remember talking with some other food writers, a year and a half ago or so, about one of the pressing questions of the day: where were the flops? Things were opening fast and furiously, often in the form of very large and well-funded...Show More Summary

Jonathan Zaragoza on leaving Masa Azul: 'Just gonna chill.'

When Logan Square's Masa Azul opened a little over three years ago, I didn't care much for the food, but I loved bartender Jenny Kessler's cocktails and owner Jason Lerner's commitment to agave spirits. A little over a year later things...Show More Summary

The Chinese police have nothing on Lao Pi BBQ

I'd like to thank whoever subscribed me to News China, a glossy magazine whose title pretty much says it all. There's lots to read in the August issue, including a report on extremist violence in the far-western province of Xinjiang,...Show More Summary

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