Blog Profile / The Food Chain

Filed Under:United States / Chicago
Posts on Regator:1184
Posts / Week:3.8
Archived Since:June 16, 2009

Blog Post Archive

Dolo joins Chinatown's dim sum renaissance

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The best Maine crab-and-crawfish boil in Chinatown

I arrived late at Dolo Restaurant and Bar, located a little southwest of the primary Chinese restaurant area that spans Archer and Cermak in Chinatown, and my friends had already been through the menu and decided on some things to order. Show More Summary

An important lesson about dining at Bom Bolla in Wicker Park

Several of my friends had spoken highly on social media of their experiences at Bom Bolla, a new cava bar—that is, a wine bar focused on sparkling wine from Spain—from the owners of Pops for Champagne. As food gets more ornate in Chicago,...Show More Summary

Rick Bayless shares his recipe for red chile short rib soup

Rick Bayless has published nine cookbooks since 1987's Authentic Mexican. I've cooked out of all of them, and I've not once come across a bunk recipe.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

A new pho and banh mi spot on Lawrence shows the simple virtues of Vietnamese food

Several years ago I was in Santa Cruz, California, and discovered something I hadn't expected to see anywhere this side of Saigon: fast food banh mi chains. But if you thought about it, the Vietnamese-French fusion sandwich, with its...Show More Summary

Eat like the Obamas this Thursday, and other summer events

The solstice has passed, and by the ancient laws of the mysterious Druid sect that really runs our food scene, that means the season of outdoor events featuring celebrated chefs, beer, and sunshine has officially begun. There are some...Show More Summary

Defending the Cherry Circle Room against the Blackhawk hordes

A couple of weeks ago there were events showing off the renovated public areas of the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel, opposite Millennium Park, and I could have gone to the ribbon cutting with Mayor Emanuel, but it was a hectic week and, anyway, I don't really like crowds. Show More Summary

Swallow your shame at Taco in a Bag

That's pretty much true of all the bags, which makes them an improvement over other "failure piles" like poutine, where the key ingredients tend to degrade under the toppings. The Pizza in a Bag is commendable too, with bolognese, mozzarella, parmesan, and deep-fried pepperoni slices that amount to meat chips.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

The folks behind Fork are bringing a regular-guy steak house to Lincoln Square

It used to be that every neighborhood had its share of regular-guy steak houses—supper-club-type places where you could take your lady out to get cocktails and a pretty good steak in a grown-up atmosphere, without going downtown and spending the down payment on a new Buick. Show More Summary

The Spoke & Bird is a beer garden for the South Loop

By far the best reason to go to the Spoke & Bird is the patio. The inside of the cafe, which replaced Cafe Society in March, is cute and modern, full of reclaimed wood and flooded with natural light.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Jake Bickelhaupt of 42 Grams named one of Food & Wine's best new chefs

I don't take any national list too seriously, but if there's one I tend to give some credence to, it's Food & Wine's best new chefs list, which is genuinely national (not six New York chefs and four from the rest of America) and intelligently reflective of who's won respect from diners, reviewers, and peers in a relatively short time. Show More Summary

Intro's Erik Anderson on pop-ups, Noma groupies, and his tasting menu

It hasn't broken through to citywide consciousness yet the way Next did a few years ago, but for me the most interesting moveable feast in town is the rotating-chef restaurant in the former L2O space, Intro. At least that's my conclusion...Show More Summary

Hot Doug returns (again!) for a hot dog festival

Judging by the line outside Paulina Meat Market a few weeks ago, there's an inexhaustible appetite for Doug Sohn's encased meats on a bun. So at the end of this month the late Hot Doug's returns again for the Dog Dayz of Summer, which...Show More Summary

No need to look elsewhere for a guide to no-knead miso bread

Making bread has always seemed a little bit intimidating. People talk about how simple it is, and then write recipes with terms like "autolyse" and "preferment."… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

At last, here's hunter beef pastrami, the Low and Slow way

One of my obsessions over the last few years has been scheming to create the elusive—or perhaps nonexistent—hunter beef pastrami. It's a basic brisket rubbed in Pakistani hunter beef spices that's smoked and then steamed until buttery tender.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Locked out of Embeya, Thai and Danielle Dang preview their new restaurant, HaiSous

I don't know what happened at Embeya when co-owner and chef Thai Dang was suddenly and messily locked out by his former partner—one side talked a lot about it and the other not at all, so it's hard to make a fair judgement. I know what...Show More Summary

A Japanese-food fanatic takes us to his favorite local spot, Kurumaya in Elk Grove Village

During the course of my interview with Japan-obsessed cook Scott Malloy yesterday, we got to talking about what Japanese restaurants we liked, especially in the suburbs around O'Hare, where there are a number of authentic ones serving the employees of Japanese companies based near the airport. Show More Summary

How a cook from Tennessee is making himself into a Japanese chef

People are always on the move in the restaurant business, and I've known plenty of chefs on the way up. But there's something different about the moves made by a cook named Scott Malloy, who currently works at Momotaro's izakaya.… [ Read more ] [ Subscribe to the comments on this story ]

Let's talk about pierogi (part two): Alexandra's Pierogi

When I wrote up a short piece about the pierogi from Pierogi Street on Tuesday, I encouraged readers to start a raucous Internet discussion on the subject—but I knew that it was unlikely; soft, fluffy pierogi are just too comfy to incite fervor. Show More Summary

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