Blog Profile / News

Filed Under:Extreme Sports / Climbing
Posts on Regator:441
Posts / Week:5.4
Archived Since:August 26, 2016

Blog Post Archive

By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15

On February 26, Margo Hayes of Boulder, Colorado, became the first woman to send a consensus 5.15 with her ascent of La Rambla (5.15a) at the El Pati sector in Siurana, Spain. The benchmark route defines 5.15a/9a+. Alex Huber originally sent it to a lower anchor at 5.14c in 1994, but the full pitch... Continue reading

Lattice Training: The 20 Minute Endurance Boost

Lattice Training is the brainchild of Tom Randall and Ollie Torr, two super strong climbers known for their hardcore training approach. Over five episodes, they'll be exploring all aspects of climbing training, starting with endurance. It turns out you only need 20 minutes to make a massive... Continue reading

Mount Huntington South Ridge Traverse: Q&A with Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley

Over April 18-25, Jess Roskelley and Clint Helander established one of the longest new alpine routes in the U.S., the South Ridge of Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range. In addition to its great length—8,500 feet—the circuitous traverse is noteworthy for its high commitment level (Alaska Grade... Continue reading

Rooftown: Flagstaff, AZ Bouldering With Matt Gentile Vol. 2

Matt Gentile is back roaming the unexplored badlands of Flagstaff, AZ, with climbing filmmaker Nathaniel Davison in tow. The duo showcase some of the most progressive first ascents in The West. From world class caves hidden deep in river canyons to exposed limestone roof highballs, Rooftown Vol 2... Continue reading

Classic Routes: The Gunks' Traverse of the Clods

Location: Shawangunks, New Paltz, New YorkGrade: 5.9 PG-13Type: TraditionalLength: 250 feetFirst ascent: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters (1976)Beginning on the Trapps’s Grand Traverse Ledge, most easily accessed by climbing the first pitch of Andrew (5.4 PG; 100 feet), the... Continue reading

Unbelayvable: Oh, You Were Using That Anchor?

I was ice climbing at Moffat Tunnel, one of the closest ice crags to Denver with easy access to set up topropes. Naturally, it attracts a lot of new ice climbers and crowds. I was dry-tooling on the side of the main flow. A woman (we’ll call her “Lucky”) was ice climbing, for the first time, 15... Continue reading

Take a Tour of Alex Honnold's New Van

Earlier this year, Alex Honnold upgraded from the 2002 Ford Econoline E150 to a 2016 Dodge Ram Promaster. His new home, built out by fellow climber Mason Earle, includes artistic touches like using scrap metal from the Black Diamond factory for cabinet pulls, and etching an image of El Capitan... Continue reading

How Bouldering Changed Joe's Valley

Coffee, Internet, and showers. That’s all the boulderers asked for. After years of lurking outside the Orangeville Branch Library to borrow Wi-Fi, taking sink baths, and swallowing gritty gas-station coffee, the climbers found their call answered by entrepreneurial locals in this once-booming... Continue reading

Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey (2017 Trailer)

Hailed as one of the most influential climbers of all time, Fred Beckey is the original American dirtbag–one who abandons societal norms and material comforts in pursuit of a nomadic mountaineering lifestyle.This rebel athlete’s lifetime of accomplishments set the bar for the entire sport. He... Continue reading

Mother's Day Special: An Interview With 6 Pro Climber Moms

Whether your mom taught you all you know about anchors or doesn’t know the first thing about the Yosemite decimal system, she’s been there. This Mother's Day, we're celebrating the women who kissed our bruises, chauffeured us to the gym, and ultimately allowed us to pursue our dreams. Being the... Continue reading

Beth Rodden: Above the Fray

Beth Rodden has had a storied career, from redpointing the first ascent of what might be the hardest trad pitch in North America to her capture in Kyrgyzstan. Here, she opens up about climbing, her kidnapping, her family life—and how rewarding it is to open up.Related:Beth Rodden's... Continue reading

Crusty Corner: The Despondency Point

April 2017: I sat slumped on a rock, staring down at my shoes, palms turned up and arms loose at my sides. My muscles burned, I couldn’t draw a full breath, and two times out climbing in the 10 days preceding I’d had heart palpitations and low-blood-pressure issues at the cliff; somehow, I needed... Continue reading

Route Cleaning Leads to Enormous Rock Fall

From the looks of it, this is a lot more than route developer Pedro Pons bargained for when he cleaned a loose block from a new crag in Chulilla, Spain. The video serves as a good reminder that sometimes the rocks we climb are more precarious than they appear. Also of note: The people on... Continue reading

Joe Kinder on the First Ascent of Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)

Joe Kinder has been in the game since the late 1990s, and when it comes to sheer numbers, he is prolific. Since 2000, he’s logged roughly 200 5.14 redpoints, sending nails-hard routes like Tommy Caldwell’s Kryptonite (5.14d). But perhaps Kinder’s greatest gift is his eye for establishing first... Continue reading

Looking Back on the Life of Ueli Steck

Last week, on May 4, world-renowned alpinist and speed climber Ueli Steck was cremated surrounded by monks in the Buddhist village of Tengboche, in the Khumbu region of Nepal. In attendance was Steck’s expedition partner Tenji Sherpa, Steck’s widow Nicole Steck, parents and friends.For three hours... Continue reading

Patxi Usobiaga's Return to Hard Climbing

Patxi Usobiaga had a storied climbing career. He won the IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup in both 2006 and 2007. He made the world's first 5.14c onsight. He's climbed several 5.15a routes. Then in 2011 he was in a car accident, suffering a herniated disc that caused him to stop climbing completely.... Continue reading

The Push: An Excerpt From Tommy Caldwell's Gripping New Memoir

From The Push: A Climber’s Journey of Endurance, Risk, and Going Beyond Limits by Tommy Caldwell, to be published on May 16 by Viking, an imprint of Penguin Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. Copyright © 2017 by Tommy Caldwell.On August 11, 2000, four young American... Continue reading

Take a Tour of Tommy Caldwell's Gear Shed and Van

Can you really call a two-story building complete with training wall, office, and gear storage a shed? Whatever it is, Tommy Caldwell has a drool-worthy setup. Continue reading

2016 Golden Pitons: Alpine

This year’s Golden Piton for alpine performance goes to Marc-Andre Leclerc for his hard alpine ascents and solos in recent years, culminating in the solo of Torre Egger in Patagonia. At 24, Leclerc has completed the solo trifecta of the Cerro Torre group, all amidst several seasons of other record... Continue reading

Peaches Preaches: Hardtimes on the Moonboard

I stumbled into the Shrimpshrine, a co-op home gym in Salt Lake City. It was winter 2014. The shrine was kitted out with weights, a few hangboards, strange sideways campus boards, a stereo, and a mattress. Nik Berry, a member of the Shrine Crew, and I passed all the other equipment on our way to... Continue reading

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