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Jonathan Gold finds Kettle Black's eccentric Italian illuminating. Try the octopus salad.

How many Edison bulbs hang from the ceiling at Kettle Black? So many Edison bulbs. I got to the mid-70s the night I counted — there are more — but I got distracted by the 17-foot-high back bar, the weathered wood floor and the industrial-steel undercarriage of the stools. The restaurant occupies...
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