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The Artistic Genius of In Situ

At lunchtime, in the lounge area of In Situ, chef Corey Lee’s new restaurant in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, a red-headed man in a pinstriped blue suit stands between two pale cottonwood tables whose knotty tops have been polished to a reflective gloss. He scans the gray pamphlet that serves as the restaurant’s menu, looks up at the restaurant server standing next to him, and says, bewilderedly, “You don’t have any salads?” The server says something softly to the man, who nods and walks out, back into the lobby of the museum.
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