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‘Meat-Eater’s Mecca’: How the Brazilian Steakhouse Swept America

The first time the now-familiar Brazilian steakhouse chain Fogo de Chão was reviewed in the American press, it was acclaimed as a “meat-eater’s mecca.” In her review published in September 1997, former Dallas Morning News restaurant critic Dotty Griffith described the decades-old chain — which had just opened its first U.S. location in Dallas — as a place you could go on Friday after a busy week, ask the gaúcho-style waiter for the menu, and he would answer: “We don’t have one.
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