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Inside 108, Noma’s Livelier, Less Expensive Spinoff

Late on the night of September 20, Kristian Baumann’s friends threw him a birthday party. They cranked up the AC/DC, and passed round glasses of sparkling wine and bacon-wrapped sausages from a hotdog truck parked outside. Two cakes appeared, and a colleague set out a pot of curry so spicy it had a few celebrants looking longingly at the harbor waters nearby. Through it all, Baumann—the chef of Copenhagen’s hottest new restaurant—kept a smile on his face and gamely thanked well-wishers for the surprise.
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