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N.Y.C.L.U.’s Feast for Activists

American food activism was born in the seventeen-seventies, when the Boston Tea Party turned that town’s harbor into a souchong-scented scene of rebellion. In 2003, the cafeteria in the U.S. House of Representatives, in a somewhat literal protest of France’s position against the Iraq War, rechristened fried potatoes freedom fries. In 2015, the Spanish-American chef José Andrés, offended by Trump’s anti-Mexican rhetoric, pulled out of a restaurant deal with the candidate’s new Washington, D.
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