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‘Apples of Uncommon Character’ Is Food Writing at Its Most Magical

Plus reviews of ‘Relish,’ ‘Arbitrary Stupid Goal,’ and more Welcome to Eater’s Book Club, a column where we share the books — old or new — that we’ve read this month. (Yes, there’s a focus on food, eating, and dining out.) Apples of Uncommon Character: Heirlooms, Modern Classics, and Little-Known Wonders by Rowan Jacobsen Bloomsbury USA Apples of Uncommon Character does what it says on the box: The book is a guide to varieties of apple, listing off their geographic origins, the time of their development, and what makes them unique.
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