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Jonathan Gold is intrigued by the cross-cultural flavors at the Exchange, a restaurant inspired by Israel

Amba is a fermented mango condiment associated with the Iraqi Jewish community, a Middle Eastern chutney with a pleasant muskiness and a pronounced chile bite. Amba used to be pretty rare in the U.S. — an acquaintance once picked a fight with me when I mentioned tasting it in a part of Brooklyn...
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