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Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/16/17

Northwest:--Two snowboarders went missing on Sunday just outside the Mt. Baker Ski area. Bellingham Mountain Rescue worked with the Sheriff's department to search for the two men, identified as Jake Amancio and Drew Lenz. Storm conditions have made searching difficult. Show More Summary

Book Review: The Alchemy of Action by Doug Robinson

In 2001, I attended my first American Mountain Guides Association Annual Meeting in Yosemite Valley. I was standing at the campfire, looking for someone to talk to. I didn't really know anyone as I hadn't been guiding very long. Suddenly, a small-statured man with white hair and muscular forearms offered me a beer. Show More Summary

Women's expedition explores new routes in India's Zanskar Range

From left: Savannah Cummins, Anna Pfaff and Lindsay Fixmer. [Photo] Lindsay Fixmer Starting near the end of August, Savannah Cummins, Lindsay Fixmer and I spent 24 days climbing and exploring the remote Raru Mountains in northern India's Zanskar Range. Show More Summary

Route Profile: North Face Chair Peak

As winter descends on the Cascades, I find myself thinking about one of my favorite winter alpine climbs in the Pacific Northwest. The North Face of Chair Peak is a classic winter ascent that can easily be done in a day. It has a beautiful alpine face that gets covered in snow. Show More Summary

Five Minute Fingers

Years ago as a gumby in my very first year of climbing, I was looking through guidebooks in Rock and Snow in New Paltz, New York, when a random old-schooler started spouting off about how he had attained his current level of strength and fitness. It took me a moment to realize that this Verve-clad […] The post Five Minute Fingers appeared first on Evening Sends.

Ascending Systems

There are a million ascending systems out there. On this blog we have previously discussed jugging with mechanical ascenders, the prusik hitch and climbing the rope with an autoblocking device. These are all excellent techniques forShow More Summary

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/9/17

Northwest:--The Forest Service has a number of entry level jobs available in Washington and Oregon. To read more, click here.--In other jobs news, the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center is hiring avalanche forecasters. To read more, click here.Sierra: --The legendary High Sierra guidebook author, R.J. Show More Summary

Route Profile: Johnny Vegas, 5.7, II+

Johnny Vegas is an extremely popular, extremely cool little route that can be found on the lower tier of the Solar Slab Wall in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This phenomenal 5.6 or 5.7 route (depending on who you talk to) climbs up through three enjoyable pitches, all of which are in a spectacular position. Show More Summary

Aiguille du Midi / The Cosmiques Ridge

The Cosmiques Ridge (in french Arête des Cosmiques) is one of the most classic climbs in Mont Blanc Massif. This ridge on the Aiguille du Midi need minimal approach and is easily accessible from the cable car. Give easy grade (french PD/PD+), nice views and you know why Cosmiques are so popular. Show More Summary

Static vs. Dynamic Climbing Technique

Mani the Monkey has some great training videos on Youtube. His videos are well-produced and offer a tremendous amount of information in a short period of time.Mani created the following video about the advantages and disadvantages of static and dynamic climbing styles. Show More Summary

Registration open for American Alpine Club's Annual Benefit Dinner

T ickets are now available for the American Alpine Club's annual benefit dinner weekend on February 23-24 in Boston, Massachusetts. This year's event will honor the 40th anniversary of the first American ascent of K2 (8611m), when Jim...Show More Summary

World renowned alpinist and climbing pioneer Fred Becky dies at age 94

Fred Beckey in 2012. [Photo] Jerry Dodrill Fred Beckey, one of the most prolific alpinists the world has ever known, died October 30 at age 94 in Seattle, Washington, while in the caring arms of his close friend and biographer Megan Bond. Bond told Alpinist that a burial is scheduled for 1 p.m. Show More Summary

Follow Through - Ski Mountaineer Caroline Gleich

Caroline Gleich is considered Utah's most controversial skier. This name is unfortunately a product of a misogynistic ski culture. She is a social media star and model that can be seen on billboards throughout Utah. This has caused "haters"...Show More Summary

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/2/17

Northwest: Fred Beckey --The legendary climber and writer, Fred Beckey, passed away this week at the age of 94. Fred has more first ascents than anyone, anywhere, ever. And his three-volume Cascade Alpine Guide has long provided climbers in the Pacific Northwest with thousands of peaks to climb. Show More Summary

Top 5 Reasons You Don’t Want a GriGri +

By now you’ve probably read multiple reviews about why the GriGri+ is so great. Well, I’m here to tell you it’s not all roses, people, and below are five reasons why you might not want to get a GriGri+. You like dropping people Perhaps the most interesting new feature of the device is the anti-panic […]

The Haunted Hut of Ecuador

The Whymper Hut on Chimborazo The hut keepers won't sleep in the Whymper Hut on Chimborazo. For them it's not a myth or a legend. It's a fact.The Whymper Hut is haunted.The hut keepers all have ghost stories about the place. They've all seen something in there. Show More Summary

What's Up with Rock Shoes?

You've heard it before and you'll hear it again. It happens all over the country with a carbon copy of the same clueless individual at the climbing shop. "Dude, you need shoes that hurt," he tells you. "They should be at least two sizes too small for your feet!"Two sizes too small...? Is there any truth to this?The answer is yes and no. Show More Summary

The Alpine Quickdraw

There are two ways to stow a shoulder-length runner. The first way is to simply sling it over your shoulder; and the second is to "triple-it" or turn it into a an alpine quickdraw.If you prefer to keep runners slung over your shoulder, you should keep them oriented the same direction so that they don't get tangled. Show More Summary

Grandes Jorasses / Desmaison (Gousseault)

Desmaison (Gousseault) on the north face of Grandes Jorasses is described as one of the finest mixed climbs in The french Alps. On 11-14 of October 2017 we do this route and here you have a description of Desmaison. Like they say in the guidebook: “Go for it, before you become an old fart”... Show More Summary

The Unsung Benefits of Outdoor Climbing

After years of climbing and never feeling fit enough when I hit the crag, I finally caved and started visiting the climbing gym. The gym, to me, felt like a totally different climbing culture than I was accustomed to. I'm into outdoor...Show More Summary

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