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Outdoor Retailer winter trade show is merging with SIA Snow Show in Denver

E merald Expositions LLC--the company that owns Outdoor Retailer--announced May 24 that it has acquired the SnowSports Industries America (SIA) Snow Show and that the winter OR trade show will now be held in conjunction with the SIAShow More Summary

Self Arrest with Crampons

We teach self arrest a lot.You could argue that we teach this skill more than any other. Every single course that goes out onto a glacier will spend at least some time covering this foundational skill. Some will spend all day, whereas others may only spend a short period of time. Show More Summary

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/25/17

Northwest:--A man was attacked by a bear in Squamish this week. It is believed that the attack was unprovoked but that the bear charged because she was protecting a cub. To read more, click here.Sierra:--The Sierra Wave is reportingShow More Summary

Marek Raganowicz solos two new routes on the Ship's Prow in Baffin Island

M arek Raganowicz hadn't planned on spending six weeks alone among the polar bears on Baffin Island, but that's what happened after his partner, Marcin Tomaszewski, had some problems with light frostbite on his toes and had to leaveShow More Summary

Quinn Brett makes probable first female free ascent of Spaceshot (5.13a) in Zion

Max Barlerin and Quinn Brett celebrate on top of the Leaning Wall in Zion after Brett's free ascent of Spaceshot (IV 5.13a) on May 2. [Photo] Max Barlerin Quinn Brett made what is likely the first female free ascent of Spaceshot (IV 5.13a, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Wall in Zion National Park, Utah, on May 1-2. Show More Summary

AAI Guide Class of 2017

The American Alpine Institute is incredibly well known for the quality of its internal guide training. Indeed, the American Mountain Guides Association based their alpine guide courses on AAI's three-week internal training.Every year AAI hires guides, but usually the new guide staff consists of three to eight people. Show More Summary

Busy spring

FA of The Mighty Chondria E7 6c, 5c on Creag Mo, Isle of Harris. Pic by Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media It’s a good sign when you are too busy being outside climbing all the time to write a blog. Finally it is raining today after quite a few weeks or largely dry and fine weather in the highlands. Show More Summary

In the Company of Ticks

As the weather warms, it feels surreal as I step out of my winter dreams of warmth and into a bright sunny reality. I love wearing shorts on approaches... But as it warms I cannot rid myself of the feeling that some little bloodsucker...Show More Summary

Joe Kinder’s Hardest Route Yet

I loved this video about my good buddy Joe’s efforts to take down Bone Tomahawk in the Finn Cave somewhere out in the middle of the Utah desert. It’s always interesting to me how the process of climbing a project is circular and repetitive,...Show More Summary

Colin Haley solos North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter) round-trip in 17 hours

C olin Haley completed one of his longstanding projects on May 12 with the first solo ascent of the North Buttress of Alaska's 14,573-foot Begguya (Haley prefers to refer to the mountain as Begguya, the Dena'ina name for Mt. Hunter)....Show More Summary

Diamox - The Wonder Drug?

Diamox is the trade name for a drug called Acetazolamide. This is a "altitude wonder drug" that many people take to increase the speed of their acclimatization. It is also a drug that some people put a little too much hope into instead of acclimitizing properly.The reality is that Diamox is not a wonder drug. Show More Summary

By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15

On February 26, Margo Hayes of Boulder, Colorado, became the first woman to send a consensus 5.15 with her ascent of La Rambla (5.15a) at the El Pati sector in Siurana, Spain. The benchmark route defines 5.15a/9a+. Alex Huber originally sent it to a lower anchor at 5.14c in 1994, but the full pitch... Continue reading

Lattice Training: The 20 Minute Endurance Boost

Lattice Training is the brainchild of Tom Randall and Ollie Torr, two super strong climbers known for their hardcore training approach. Over five episodes, they'll be exploring all aspects of climbing training, starting with endurance. It turns out you only need 20 minutes to make a massive... Continue reading

Mount Huntington South Ridge Traverse: Q&A with Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley

Over April 18-25, Jess Roskelley and Clint Helander established one of the longest new alpine routes in the U.S., the South Ridge of Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range. In addition to its great length—8,500 feet—the circuitous traverse is noteworthy for its high commitment level (Alaska Grade... Continue reading

Climber delegation lobbies Congress on behalf of public lands

The delegation of Colorado climbers walks through the rain from the House to the Senate while lobbying Congress in Washington, DC, on May 11 as part of the Climb the Hill event organized by the Access Fund and American Alpine Club. [Photo]...Show More Summary

The Dangers of Glissading

Yep, you can find them in just about every issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. They have unwieldy headlines like: "Climber injured in Glissade Accident" "Out of Control Glissade Leads to Fatality" "Inexperience, Lack of Proper Clothing and Glissade with Crampons On" Gissading is an incredibly fun endeavor. Show More Summary

Rooftown: Flagstaff, AZ Bouldering With Matt Gentile Vol. 2

Matt Gentile is back roaming the unexplored badlands of Flagstaff, AZ, with climbing filmmaker Nathaniel Davison in tow. The duo showcase some of the most progressive first ascents in The West. From world class caves hidden deep in river canyons to exposed limestone roof highballs, Rooftown Vol 2... Continue reading

Classic Routes: The Gunks' Traverse of the Clods

Location: Shawangunks, New Paltz, New YorkGrade: 5.9 PG-13Type: TraditionalLength: 250 feetFirst ascent: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters (1976)Beginning on the Trapps’s Grand Traverse Ledge, most easily accessed by climbing the first pitch of Andrew (5.4 PG; 100 feet), the... Continue reading

Unbelayvable: Oh, You Were Using That Anchor?

I was ice climbing at Moffat Tunnel, one of the closest ice crags to Denver with easy access to set up topropes. Naturally, it attracts a lot of new ice climbers and crowds. I was dry-tooling on the side of the main flow. A woman (we’ll call her “Lucky”) was ice climbing, for the first time, 15... Continue reading

Take a Tour of Alex Honnold's New Van

Earlier this year, Alex Honnold upgraded from the 2002 Ford Econoline E150 to a 2016 Dodge Ram Promaster. His new home, built out by fellow climber Mason Earle, includes artistic touches like using scrap metal from the Black Diamond factory for cabinet pulls, and etching an image of El Capitan... Continue reading

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