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The Pain and the Pleasure of Crampons on Approach Shoes

Whoa! Crampons on approach shoes? That's crazy talk. Crampons belong on boots!Most of us couldn't agree more with this sentiment. But most of us also don't want to walk across a short section of ice wearing boots for an alpine rock climb...Show More Summary

Alpinist Magazine announces Alpinist Podcast season 1: The Voices Behind the Words

Alpinist Associate Editor and Podcast Host Paula Wright in the sound booth. [Photo] Alpinist collection Jeffersonville, VT August 21, 2017--In collaboration with Dispatch Radio, Height of Land Publications is pleased to announce the Alpinist podcast, a series of episodes that take the stories Alpinist readers love to a new medium. Show More Summary

Women's Baker Skills and Climb: A Photo Essay

You never conquer a mountain. You stand on the summit a few brief minutes and then the wind blows away your footprints -Arlene Blum The attitude that Arlene Blum maintains in this quote is one that many mountaineers share, in some cases...Show More Summary

Czech climbers realize 'Satisfaction' on Gasherbrum's southwest face

Gasherbrum I (8080m): Satisfaction (ED+ M7 WI5+ 70°, 3000m) is the second line from the left. [Image] Marek Holecek Marek Holecek has returned to the southwest face of Gasherbrum I (8080) five times since 2009 in a bid to complete a route up the middle of the face through two rockbands. Show More Summary

Angle and Force in an Anchor

You've heard before, and I'll say it again. The lower the angle between the pieces in an anchor, the better equalized the anchor will be.What does this actually mean?Well, first it means that the American Death Triangle is really bad... Show More Summary

Chilean climbers reach two unclimbed Karakoram summits near Broad Peak

[Image] Armando Montero Three Chilean climbers--Andres Bosch, 29, Armando Montero, 36, and Alejandro "Jimmy" Mora, 39--set out for the Karakoram Range in mid-June to explore some unclimbed peaks directly across the Goodwin-Austen Glacier from Broad Peak. Show More Summary

Summer of Shuas

The first crux of Dun Briste E8 6c during the first ascent. Thanks to Cubby Images for these pics. Cubby, when are you doing your book?!! This summer I’ve tried to make up for last summer’s wet weather and broken legs and have picked up where I left off, trying to do some of the superb new routes just waiting to be climbed on Binnien Shuas. Show More Summary

Falling on Lead and "Cratering"

It was a beautiful spring day in Red Rock Canyon. I was overseeing the second day of an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor exam and all of the guide candidates were doing a great job. It was a great day to be...Show More Summary

Forearm Exercises to Make You Strong

There's no question about it. When your forearms are fried, the dishes are done. You're going to fall off your route.Technique is important for climbing and it can save your strength. Indeed, on routes with a rating below 5.8, strength may not even be an issue if your technique is adequate. Show More Summary

Hazel Findlay sends a new stemming testpiece in Squamish at 5.13d R

Hazel Findlay leads Tainted Love, aka Northern Soul (5.13d R), in Squamish, British Columbia. [Photo] Jonny Baker Hazel Findlay recently made the first ascent of the hard trad route Tainted Love, aka Northern Soul (5.13d R)--a thin and...Show More Summary

Fear and Judgement in Risk and Death

Death visits Mount Everest each season with the reliability of a monsoon, and this year was no different. What was different was the ironic nature of the deaths on Everest in 2017. On a mountain where inexperienced climbers routinely die, it was actually the mountaineer with the most experience, skill, and talent who died first. Show More Summary

Search and Rescue Costs

Should climbers and other outdoor enthusiasts have to pay for rescue...?Many non-climbers feel that climbing related rescues should be paid for by those that are rescued. However, many of these same individuals do not feel that hiking related, hunting related, or boating related rescues should be paid for by the individuals that are rescued. Show More Summary

The Life and Climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

“Alpinism is the art of freedom,” wrote Voytek Kurtyka, the great Polish alpinist who redefined the limits of Himalayan climbing and exploration in the 1980s. Voytek is perhaps best known for his alpine-style first ascent of the Shining Wall on Gasherbrum IV with Robert Schauer in 1985. Show More Summary

Leave No Trace: Dispose of Waste Properly

The third principal of Leave No Trace is to Dispose of Waste Properly. When discussing LNT, most people immediately jump to human waste disposal when talking about this. But that's not the only consideration when it comes to disposing of waste properly.First, it's important to make a plan to pack out all trash and waste. Show More Summary

A Celebration of Women in the Outdoors - Where the Wild Things Play

Outdoor Research -- the clothing manufacturer -- has done a great job with inclusion in their recent promotions. It started with their awesome takedown of GQ and its sexist photo shoot that only showed women watching. In ORs response it turned the sexism on its head by showing the men watching the women. Show More Summary

Canadians free climb Chacraraju's east face headwall with 'The Devil's Reach Around'

Chacraraju Este's east face with The Devil's Reach Around (M6 5.10, 90°) marked in red. [Photo] Quentin Lindfield Roberts Canadian climbers Alik Berg and Quentin Lindfield Roberts completed a new route on the east face of Chacraraju Este (6001m) in Peru in mid-July. Show More Summary

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 8/3/17

Northwest:--The Bellingham Herald is reporting that, "A Bellingham woman’s body will remain on a North Cascades glacier indefinitely, as a recovery team decided Monday that a mission to the site is too dangerous. Well-known mountaineer...Show More Summary

Carsten von Birckhahn is remembered for his kindness, passion and vision

Carsten Von Birckhahn in Patagonia. [Photo] Martin Kroussottsi collection Carsten von Birckhahn--a respected member of the international climbing community and brand manager for Edelrid--died in a paragliding accident in northern Italy on July 15 while vacationing with his wife and kids. Show More Summary

Book Review: My Old Man and the Mountain by Leif Whittaker

Leif Whitaker grew up in two shadows. He grew up in the shadow of a mountain, Mt. Everest. And he grew up in the shadow of a man, his father... Jim Whittaker. Jim was the first American to summit Mt. Everest. And almost fifty-years later, his son also climbed Mt. Show More Summary

Funny Climbing Quotes

Climbing is a sport rife with literary characters who have said some very funny things. With the help of this website, I was able to come up with a nice list of quotes. Here are some great one liners:"A climber's day always starts at...Show More Summary

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